10 Seconds at Todos Santos

The time spent riding big waves is seconds, but those seconds last a lifetime. Years of experience, hours looking at forecasts, preparation, and training, all add up to that one moment when everything finally comes together.

One wave and 10 seconds I will remember forever happened on January 13, 2023. But let’s rewind a little bit first.

My 2022/23 big wave season had gotten off to a rather slow start. A few waveless sessions and missed swells had made my confidence start to fade.

Now it was January, and I was in San Diego for work. I was doing my best to not think about the large swell hitting Hawaii. But then I realized, that same swell was going to track its way to Todos Santos, just a couple hours from where I was.

I immediately started putting a plan together like a spy on a secret mission. The problem was, all my big wave gear was in San Francisco and I didn’t have time to go get it. I began calling all my friends to see who would be crazy enough to bring my gear and come with me to the little island off the coast of Baja for what I hoped would be good waves. Luckily, I have surrounded myself with like-minded people, and my friend Laura was down for the cause. Laura loves shooting big waves and happened to have nothing better to do that weekend. I also convinced my boyfriend (now fiancé), Jake, to hop on the red-eye from Oahu and join the strike mission.

We all met at 3:00 a.m. at Laura’s friend, Francisco’s house in San Diego. Francisco had also somehow gotten roped into the journey and was now our official driver. He drove like an Italian F1 racer and got us to the Ensenada harbor just as the sun was coming up.

Arriving at any big wave spot, the anticipation of what you will find is always high. Boating up to a wave heightens that anticipation. You try to calculate the size of the waves by how big the swell lines you’re crashing over are. The entire 30-minute or so boat ride, all I was thinking was, this is my day, I can feel it. But at the same time, I didn’t have any expectations or pressure. I had a calm sense of knowing that if I were meant to get a wave today, the ocean would give me one.

We finally got our first look at the wave, and it did not disappoint. A set was rolling through the lineup, the iconic emerald-green water looking as if it was illuminated as it hit the ledge and threw a thick barrel. As we got closer, I could see it wasn’t that crowded, but nearly every person in the lineup was a big wave legend. Greg and Rusty Long, Peter and John Mell, Kohl Christensen, Paige Alms, Felicity Pallmater, and Ian Walsh. All people who I’ve had pictures of on my wall and have idolized.

One of the things I love about big wave surfing is how humble, down-to-earth, and just plain cool big wave surfers are. Sure, big wave surfing has turned into somewhat of a circus at times, but the true, soul surfers are out there to have a good time, share waves, and go home safe. I’ve been lucky enough to become friends with and learn from people like Greg and Rusty, and being able to share the lineup with them is something I greatly value.

I felt like the little kid who was invited to the big kid’s table that day. I wanted to make sure I waited my turn and didn’t get in anyone’s way. After sitting and observing the lineup for about an hour, I saw a set approaching. I paddle outside but forced myself to not completely run away. The first wave rolled under me. I watched as it broke just inside of where I was sitting and thought, I could have caught that.

Then the next wave came. It looked similar to the first, so I knew I could catch it. I swung around, and to my surprise, no one else tried to go. I was already head-down paddling when the people next to me had turned around. I had zeroed in on that wave like a hunter taking a shot. I knew I was going to get it, and it was going to be a good one.

I took what felt like two paddles and felt my board start to take off. It was one of those, ‘hand of God’ moments where you feel like somebody gave you a little extra push. I popped up, and the first thought that came to my mind was, “I’m doing it, I finally got a wave!” It felt amazing, I was flying down a mountain of water, suspended in time.

I had never ridden a wave this big, and I was going fast, really fast. I had so much speed I couldn’t make the bottom turn I needed in order to exit stage right in time. I saw the lip looming above my head. I’m not sure if I jumped off my board out of a fight or flight reaction, or if I was knocked off by hitting a chop, but either way, I found myself underwater.

I often fear big wipeouts, but the funny thing is when they actually happen, the fear goes away, and I go into survival mode. My body relaxes, and I know I just need to ride out the underwater rollercoaster.

On this wipeout, I was scared I would be pushed deep, so I pulled my inflation vest. I immediately turned into a beach ball and bounced along with the whitewater. It carried me for a long time, but I knew I was close to the surface and would be let up eventually.

I finally burst through the bubbles and got a sip of air. I was ok. All limbs attached, no scratches. I had drifted so far that I was almost at the rocky shore of the island. Thankfully, I heard the buzz of a jet ski and looked over to see Kohl Christensen zooming in to swoop me up. I scrambled on the sled as he yelled, “That was insane!” All I could think was if Kohl was saying that was insane, what just happened?

He brought me back to my boat, where Jake, Laura, and Francisco were waving their arms and cheering. I felt like an astronaut returning from the moon. Laura passed me her camera with the shots of my wave on the screen. I couldn’t believe the person I was looking at was me. I knew the wave was big when I was riding it, but I had no idea it was that big.

I had so much adrenaline going all I could do was put my hands on my head in disbelief and smile. I’ve gotten “big waves” before, but this was truly a big wave. The one I’ve been waiting for. All the years of surfing, all the hours spent studying videos, all the training and preparation, everything came together for those 10 seconds on that wave. A wave I will remember for the rest of my life.